Boxer Blog...

Potty Training 101

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So you have a new puppy. Number one thing on all new owner's to -do list, is potty training! Boxers, are very intelligent, overall clean dogs, but I will say, unfortunately one area they can be a little "slow" in (compared to other medium/large breed dogs) is potty training. 

Potty training starts the MINUTE you introduce them to their new home. First thing. Take the pup outside and let them get to know their outside surroundings. The second your pup eliminates make a BIG party, praise... using the words "Good POTTY". You aren't praising the pup, it's not "Good girl, or Good Fluffy" use the word Potty. This will begin the process of associating the action of eliminating with the word potty. If you are 100% consistent, before too long you will be able to ask your puppy to go potty and it will trigger the need for them to go when they hear the word. (All my dogs potty on command, whenever, wherever)

Second very important thing is, you must have a dog crate. This is not in-humane. This is a necessity. Your pup must never have un-attended time inside the house. It is an earned privledge to be in the house un-attended, and left for older dogs who have proven they understand the concept of going potty outside. If you are in the room with the pup, watch for sniffing the ground, walking in circles, and walking to the door or whining for indicators she/he needs to go out. If he/she just ate, or just woke up from a nap, will definatly be a time to let the pup out. Be very consistent, and very frequent. If you are unable to be with your pup to supervise, they should be in their crate. 

The "rule of thumb" for how long the MAXIMUM time your pup can "hold" potty, is their age in months (8 weeks =2 months) plus 1. so a 2 month old puppy can hold it a MAXIMUM) of 3 hours. the older the pup gets, the longer he/she can go. It is NEVER o.k to get a puppy and leave it in a crate for 8-10 hours a day. 

Follow these steps, and it will help alleviate some of the "drama" of potty training.

* You can "target train" a dog to go potty in a specific spot, as well as litter box train small breed dogs.*

A puppy is like a baby. He will relieve himeslf anywhere, anytime. Because a newly adopted adult dog is unfamiliar with your home, he may not understand where he should "go"! Housetraining, or teaching your dog to go outside to relieve himeslf, is an important lesson your dog must learn.It is up to you, the new parent, to housetrain your new puppy or dog with patience, love and understanding.CRATE TRAININGIn the wild, wolves live in a den or cave. It is important the entire wolf pack keep this area clean. The same idea works with your family pet. Your dog’s crate is his home, his bedroom. It is likely that your dog will not like to soil his bed. Therefore, he will wait until he is let out to do his business.HOUSETRAINING WITH YOUR CRATEOn average, puppies can hold their bladders one hour for every month they have been alive, plus one hour. For example, if you have a three month old puppy, he can wait 3 + 1 = 4 hours. If you work longer than this, the best solution is to have someone (a neighbour, a relative, a dog walker) come in at an appropriate time to let your dog out.100 PER CENT SUPERVISIONSupervision is the key to housetraining! While you are at home, your dog must be supervised. Whether you are watching television, making dinner, on the phone or on the computer, your puppy must be watched. While it sounds like an impossible task, it isn’t. Keeping the crate in a social part of the house makes it easier. Using a house lead – a small, thin lead with a little clip on it – also helps immensely. Outside, you put a lead on your dog so you can control him. If the lead is removed after returning home, control is lost. For example, when watching television, have the lead tied to a couch leg. Your dog can have his blanket and toys with him. He’ll feel safe and comfortable. The majority of accidents happen when your pup wanders off and you haven’t noticed. You don’t want him to sneak off into the kitchen and find a puddle a short time later. If your pup is kept from wandering, the possibility of an accident is diminished because he will not eliminate where he is sitting. 100 per cent supervision means ensuring your dog is playing with you, in his crate, outside or on his house lead.SCHEDULINGIn the morning, take your dog outside. He should urinate and possibly have a bowel movement. Spend about five to seven minutes with him and then bring him in. Do not play with him yet. Feed him breakfast, either in the crate or with the lead, and supervise it. If your pup did not have a bowel movement earlier, take him back outside about 15 minutes after he has eaten. Use the lead to keep your pup moving along while outside. Otherwise, he may start sniffing, stopping and playing to avoid the job at hand. You can say “hurry up” and your dog will begin to associate these words with the task at hand. Praise him excessively when he has eliminated. Bring him back in the house and place him in his crate if you are going to work. Continue to supervise him with the crate or the lead if you are home. When returning after being out, go directly to the crate, let him out, praise him and put him back in. Feed him his meal, take him outside 15 minutes after he has eaten, praise him after he eliminates, and bring him back in. Continue to follow the same steps consistently.While you are home, you should take your pup outside on a regular basis. Even if your pup is in a crate or on a house lead, he still needs the opportunity to eliminate. Also, be careful what you wish for! A pup who barks to go outside may be cute and clever now. However, you must try not to fall into the habit of leaping up every time your dog wants in or out. It is a very submissive gesture on your part. Have your pup wait a moment or two. Setting up a schedule is also a good idea. If your pup is under four months of age, take him out for five minutes every hour on the hour. If your pup is over four months old, take him out every second hour on the hour. The schedule will help you remember when to take him out. Go out for five minutes only. It provides the opportunity to eliminate even if your pup may not need to go. Take your dog out after active play and also after napping. If an accident occurs, you may have forgotten to take him out .FEEDING TIMEHaving a puppy drink a lot of water and then placing him in his crate is much more unkind than letting him be a bit thirsty for an hour or two. Adult dogs should have access to drinking water at all times. However, this is not the case for untrained pups. Most parents will not allow their children to drink a big glass of water before going to bed. Avoid setting your pup up for failure. Restrict his water intake to three or four drinks daily and make sure you remove the water dish about three hours before bedtime. This will help your dog sleep more comfortably.If it is a hot evening, supply your pup with a few ice cubes. They will enter your dog’s system at a slower pace. When feeding your pup, provide a high-quality food that is a good source of protein. The food must be concentrated so your puppy’s body doesn’t require much of it. If you feed less, your puppy eliminates less. Food is directly related to how well puppies do in their housetraining.EXERCISEIt is important that your pup gets a lot of exercise, especially while crate training. You can play fetch, chase or hide and seek in your home. You can call ‘come’ at the same time to provide further training. Anyway you do it, your pup needs to be able to run and play.

first of all if its a young pup get some nutri cal it helps ease the stress off the pup duinrg the transition to new home .puppy food of course find out what food the pup was fed and buy the same food or they will get sick get a dog crate with a spepration in it you want to have the pup have enough room to stand, lay down, turn around thats it this will help in potty training they wont go to bathroom were they sleep it will teach them to hold it doesnt mean lock pup up all day pups have to go often be prepared to take out pup often as soon as you open kennel good luck and have fun

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No petstore trrineas. Find a good private one on one obedience trainer to get you started. Also, if you don't know how to train a husky I assume you didn't research the breed before buying one so I'll give you some advice. 1.) You will want a flat buckle collar, not a harness. This breed was bred to pull and is incredibly strong despite the deceptively smallish size. A harness only ENCOURAGES pulling. You'll probably get suggestions for a harness so your dog can drag you down the street without injuring itself, but in reality you have to leash train your dog that means no dragging. When the dog is older if it still is pulling and has bad leash manners you may need to find a trainer to show you how to fit and use a prong collar. No, they are not inhumane at all, it mimics the nipping at the neck that dogs already do when another dog is out of line.2.) If you intend to let the dog off leash at any time, fence in your yard. You'll need a 5 foot fence with no gaps between the fence and the ground. Remember, if the dog's head can fit, the body can too. If you intend to leave a husky outside unattended you'll need a 6 foot fence with an additional 2 feet of fencing or concrete buried underground or you can kiss the dog goodbye. This breed has a strong instinctive urge to run, and they are notorious escape artists. Few huskies can be trusted off leash as recall training this breed can be exceedingly difficult, sometimes impossible.They can slip collars, so I suggest a martingale type collar. Note that chain choke collars have been known to collapse the trachea (prong collars cannot do this kind of damage) They can snap leashes if so inclined, as well as cable tie-outs and chains.3.) Develop a love for jogging, biking, hiking, swimming, and consider getting involved in dog sledding. This breed requires an enormous amount of exercise I'm talking 1-2 hours a day of rigorous exercise, possibly more. This breed is notoriously destructive to property because of boredom and lack of exercise. One who fails to properly exercise a husky can and should expect trenches dug into the yard, any tall plants to be destroyed, any movable objects in the yard to be chewed up or even obliterated, and a complete failure to respond to training and commands. This is easily preventable, provided the owner is already an active person. This breed is NOT a good match for a couch potato.On that same note, one of my favorite summer activities with the huskies was biking down a paved bike path. We had trained sled dogs, though, so it was just a matter of leashing them to the front of the bike and telling them to get going. They were trained to ignore distractions like birds and other dogs, and not to tangle the gangline. Training one husky to ignore distractions is easy enough and can be done while leash training.4.) This breed can be willful and stubborn. Don't expect to win any awards at an obedience competition, as even a well trained husky may still pick and choose when it wants to listen. There has to be a purpose for the command or the dog may not see the point in obeying. The breed responds well to positive reinforcement training and an occasional food reward certainly won't hurt. Google NILIF training and Small Dog Syndrome for more insight.5.) Huskies shed excessively, and year round. I can't stress enough just how much these dogs shed. You know how a lot of dogs shed during the summer? Huskies shed like that all year, and blow the coat twice a year. A coat blow is when the undercoat falls out in large clumps. If you want a husky, especially an indoor husky, get yourself a furminator brush and use it daily. No need to go overboard, just keep the shedding under some semblance of control and it shouldn't be a problem, your vacuum can do the rest. 6.) Huskies have a very high prey drive. They are quick enough to catch and kill cats, rabbits, squirrels, and birds, and unless properly and thoroughly socialized with small animals, you should expect it to go after them.7.) When temperatures outside exceed 90 degrees F consider keeping the dog indoors. They don't tolerate extreme heat well and easily succumb to heat stroke, which can be fatal. Never shave a husky (or any dog if you can avoid it) as it exposes the skin to sunburn. Dogs cannot tan, at all, and so are extremely vulnerable to sunburn. They also don't sweat, so exposing the skin really doesn't do anything to help them stay cool.

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